As you will know if you have read my World Book Night post, this month I have been re-reading Nine Coaches Waiting – or ‘Breed of Tigers’ as it was renamed for its 1958 magazine serialisation. I have enjoyed picking up on all the mentions of tigers in relation to the de Valmy family, and with reference to the William Blake poem (while the book’s character William Blake is described as a lamb rather than a tiger).
I have also been appreciating the way Mary Stewart writes about food. The vivid depictions of meals in her books can be hunger-inducing, they are so well described. In the UK food rationing began in 1940 and did not fully end until 1954, just four years before publication of Nine Coaches Waiting, and I cannot help but think that these food restrictions were deeply felt by Mary, influencing her to imagine and write sumptuous feasts that she and her 1950s readers would have relished. Mary Stewart writes setting so wonderfully that it gives a sense of realism in books with plots that could otherwise seem fantastical – and I believe the same is true with her food writing: it functions to ground her novels in the real world.
In Nine Coaches Waiting there is a choice of foodie scenes, the most obvious being the midnight feast on the night of the Easter Ball. I am quoting instead from the meal Linda and Philippe eat in a cafe when they are tired, hungry and hunted because this is something Mary Stewart does so well – during a pursuit or time of danger she offers her characters respite. To my mind this is Shakespearian: he juxtaposed comic scenes with tragedy to offer moments of relief while using the contrast to highlight both the humour and the tragedy; and similarly Mary Stewart often breaks up scenes of tension with food writing, offering her readers a period of relief before ratcheting up the tension once more. A similar example is in Madam, Will You Talk?, when Charity has an omelette part-way through her desperate drive to Marseille. Here we are with omelette once more, as Linda and Philippe grab a moment of rest in their flight to safety.
To this day I vividly remember the smell and taste of everything we had. Soup first, the first delicious hot mouthful for almost twenty-four hours… It was creme d’asperge, and it came smoking-hot in brown earthenware bowls with handles like gnomes’ ears, and asparagus-tips bobbed and steamed on the creamy surface. With the soup came butter with the dew on it, and crusty rolls so new that where they lay on the plastic tabletop there was a tiny dull patch of steam.
Philippe revived to that soup as a fern revives to water. When his omelette arrived, a fluffy roll, crisped at the edges, from which mushrooms burst and spilled in their own rich gravy, he tackled it with an almost normal small-boy’s appetite. My own brand of weariness demanded something more solid and I had a steak. It came in a lordly dish with the butter still sizzling on its surface and the juices oozing pinky-brown through the mushrooms and tomatoes and tiny kidneys and the small mountain of crisply-fried onions… if filet mignon can be translated as darling steak this was the very sweetheart of its kind.
Mary Stewart, Nine Coaches Waiting, chapter 27
I hope you enjoyed this quote, and if anyone knows what constitutes a lordly dish then do let me know! What is your favourite foodie writing in a Mary Stewart novel?
Previous Mary on Monday posts:
Mary on Monday: a quote from My Brother Michael
Mary on Monday: a quote from Madam, Will You Talk?
Mary on Monday: a quote from The Gabriel Hounds
Mary on Monday: a quote from The Little Broomstick
Mary on Monday: a quote from Stormy Petrel
Mary on Monday: a quote from Thunder on the Right
Mary on Monday: a quote from Thornyhold
Mary on Monday: a quote from The Little Broomstick (2)
You make a good point about how she uses food to break the tension. I like the kitchen scene in Wildfire at Midnight as Gianetta is preparing for her tense night nursing Roberta. Lamb chops and tiny peas, followed by apple pie, if I remember rightly.
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And now I want to read Wildfire at Midnight again, good suggestion Sarah 🙂
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I couldn’t even begin to choose my favourite food scene – there are SO many! The afternoon tea with Carmel Lacey, the midnight feast, dining with Simon at the hotel (especially the whole passing the menu back and forth), even the Kasbah cafe…. I’m pretty sure there’s at least one great food scene per book and mostly more 😁
A while ago I started reading a blog about food in fiction and I was so excited when she included a food scene (with a recipe) from Madam Will You Talk? Not the omelette, but one of the dinners she has with Louise:
http://thelittlelibrarycafe.com/blog/2018/5/11/crpes-suzette-madam-will-you-talk
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These are great food scenes Laura, and I really love the menu being passed to and fro! Thanks for the blog link, I am off to take a look right now.
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I love the whole Kasbah set-up too. It just has an authentic feel about it 🙂
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I agree Sarah, the Kasbah scenes feel real, the descriptions have you step right in to the cafe.
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Ooohh………..thanks for the link!
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I like the food scene from Touch Not the Cat, when Rob fixes supper for Bryony. A simple meal, with sausages, chips, tomatoes, and peas, but it seemed so homey, and special because he cooked it for her. (I got introduced by way of Mary Stewart’s books to English foods I had never heard of, like scones, bramble jelly, and sardines on toast).
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I’m going to have to reread that scene Diane (and I might just have to eat a scone too!)
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I think my favorite or at least the one I remember the most, foodie bit from Mary Stewart comes early in Madam Will You Talk, when Charity and Louise joke about expecting the waiter to “introduce” them to the steak, rather than let them eat it. Investigating this was when I first learned about how long after the war rationing of foods, including meats, continued. The reply box is still being strange for me, showing just the top of each line, so I can’t really read and proof what I type.
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Sorry the reply box is being like that, Jerri, I don’t see anything different from my end. I like the joke about being gradually introduced to steaks too, and that first hotel meal makes for a fabulous intro to the other characters!
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I really love the descriptions of food in her books set in Greece. My Brother Michael is one of my faves and it’s what comes to mind now.
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Thanks for commenting, Elena, yes there are lots of lovely food descriptions in the Greek books – leisurely gossipy breakfast with Phyllida, the devouring of corned beef with Abernethy biscuits(!) in the Moon-Spinners… I want to revisit them all now!
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HI, all! I particularly loved the scene in “Madam, Will You Talk?” when Richard had been pursuing Charity through Provence and finally caught up with her after she emerged from her attempted escape on a boat trip to the Chateau D’If right into him on the quay. They walked and talked and eventually ended up in a small restaurant, I think off the Canebiere (sp?). They stayed in the place for hours, and it was during the many-course dinner, wine, coffee, etc., that we saw Charity gradually soften and eventually come to the conclusion that Richard was not really the antagonist in the situation. I wish I had the book with me right now so I could quote the meal from it.
Also, in “This Rough Magic”, Lucy and Max had a sumptuous meal after their fight to re-introduce the dolphin into the sea. She was offered a bath in the Castello’s great bathroom, and then joined Max for a breakfast made in the great kitchen. I forget what they had, but the descriptions of the bath and the kitchen helped to create the image of the Castello in great detail.
The first kiss was a common thread in both of these scenes…I believe in “This Rough Magic” it preceded the meal as it happened down on the beach, and in “Madam, Will You Talk?”, it came after the meal…or was it before? In any case, yes, Mary Stewart had a gift for helping us readers to step right into the scene with all her vivid descriptions.
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What great descriptions, thanks for sharing these scenes Debbie. I feel I am stepping right into those books over again.
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I think the “sumptuous meal” in the kitchen in This Rough Magic is scrambled eggs, bacon and lots of strong, hot coffee, which sounds good to me any time of day!
In Thunder on the Right, her heroine, Jennifer Silver is quite a gourmet as she appreciates her meals in the hotel before her true adventure begins.
I agree with everyone here, Mary Stewart liked a good meal and was undoubtedly influenced by the war time rationing. The postwar years she was able to spend traveling and writing (and writing about traveling) must have been some of her happiest.
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Hello Allegra, lovely comments, thank you for them and apologies that I have taken forever to read them… but I wonder why suddenly I feel peckish?!
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I love this discussion and attention to detail! I think Mary Stewart’s meal scenes are unforgettable. Not just for the food but because her heroine often dines and travels alone with great savoir-faire. I first read the books in my late teens and early twenties (rather a long time ago!) and her scenes really enabled me to eat and travel solo too. Her meal descriptions remain imprinted; to this day whenever I make an omelette with herbs I think of the meal Charity has whilst fleeing to Marseilles. Also not forgetting the hot coffee laced with brandy that frequently makes an appearance after the danger has passed!
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Hi Tracy, I’m glad you are enjoying the comments – and I’m delighted to hear that reading Mary Stewart encouraged you that you can eat/travel solo: she has inspired so many of us in so many ways, who wouldn’t want to be like one of her poised heroines?! Good point about coffee/alcohol too, you’re right that there are many instances of drink as well as food in her books.
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I had to travel for my work, too, when I was young. It was during the 80s. I was often the only woman dining alone. I always thought about Mary Stewart’s heroines as I did.
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How wonderful that you thought of them, I can’t help but picture a Mary Stewart book at your elbow as you ate!
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Oh my gosh you ladies are amazing. You open my eyes to so many different aspects of Mary Stewart’s writing. I have been reading and rereading her for years. Every time I get something new out of her books. I’m positive she inspired my wander lust. However I never considered the food angle. Now I’m going to have to start over again.
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What a great comment Diane – and isn’t it good to have a reason for another Mary Stewart reread!
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I too liked the passage in The Moon-Spinners where Nicola and the injured Mark ate the provisions Lambis had brought from the boat. “We had the soup first, then corned beef, sandwiched between the thick Abernethy biscuits; some cake stiff with fruit; chocolate; and then the coffee, scalding hot, and sweetened with the tinned milk.” Is anyone else feeling hungry?
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This a good one Lucy, a substantial make-do meal – and good hot coffee is always a good thing. Yes, I feel a bit peckish now…
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It is more than creating a respite for the characters. Foods are very powerful memories, and we associate certain foods with specific events in our lives. Notice how we remember the food scenes best? 🙂 They trigger our own memories, and pull the reader directly into the book so we aren’t just looking on, but actually being her. Sitting in that lovely corner cafe, full, a fresh cafe filtre, une benedictine…… I am there! What a great day-dream.
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Great reply Libbie – I am famous in my family for not remembering events etc unless there was food involved!
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I am so delighted I found this lovely blog! I adore Mary Stewart. Found the books as a teen and have been rereading them ever since. They are much loved old friends. I have always loved how she wrote about food and I just searched for the feast scene with Linda and Raul in Nine Coaches Waiting and up pops this blog! Wow! What a fabulous surprise. And such great comments!
As mentioned, the food scenes in NCW and MWYT? are great and probably my favorites. But watch how she uses food in The Moonspinners. The description of Nicola sharing her leftover lunch with Mark as they hide in the little hut. And the next day they share the soft orange and she makes “cocoa” by pouring boiling water on pieces of a chocolate bar. You really feel the deprivation, and it underscores the predicament they are in. Then later, when Nicola arrives safely at the hotel all the descriptions of the food Tony serves her and her cousin provides such a contrast to that grim little meal she shared with Mark.
Love your honoring my very favorite author!!! Thank you!
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Hello Sylvia, thank you so much for your comments. I am sorry that it has taken me a year to read them, I have long spells where I don’t update the blog I’m afraid. I love what you write about The Moon-Spinners having such effective meal contrasts, and I’m so pleased that you have enjoyed your read through the blog.
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I did want to say I was really excited to read your comments in your opening post about food rationing after WW2, and for noticing that Mary Stewart used the descriptive food scenes as a way to ease the tension and slow the pace a bit. I had not noticed that and I really appreciate that observation.
As to the food rationing, I too remember reading Madam Will You Talk and doing the mental calculation and wondering why on earth food was still in such short supply that long after the war. I had to dig a bit to find out how really awful conditions were in Europe post-war and was shocked at how long it took to recover. Later, I learned my friend’s mom emigrated from Holland after the war, and she told me they were so hungry they ate flower bulbs. That really puts things into perspective, doesn’t it?
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What a sobering story, Sylvia. And right now in the UK we have huge need of food banks, talk of encouraging use of libraries/churches etc for those who won’t be able to heat their homes this winter – and not as a consequence of war but of very unequal society. All desperately sad
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Another memorable scene for me was in The Ivy Tree, when Annabel returns home to the farm. The description of the food they had for tea when Julie and her boyfriend visit was terrific. The sandwiches, and the cat poking his paw out from under a chair and grabbing one. And Julie’s boyfriend feeding pieces of his sandwich to the cat, surreptitiously. And what a shock Annabel gave Con and his sister when she asked if there would be “singing hinnies” for tea!!!
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That is a great food scene, Tommy is a star and written so well by Mary Stewart who very evidently adored animals
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I like the scene in “The Crystal Cave” when Myrddin is led to the kitchen for a meal.
The soup was: ” … smoking hot and delicious, and I thought I never had eaten anything so good, until I tried the chicken … “. Then sausages: ” … brown and bursting with spiced meat and onions”. Another thing Stewart does so well, as the OP mentions, is include humor. I think that’s one of the reasons my father enjoyed her writing; he was brilliant at seeing humor in uncommon situations. In the scene above, it’s her description of the cook-boy’s actions: ” … he scraped the burners clean for morning, did an even sketchier job of scouring his pans, then with a glance at Cadal for permission, went yawing back to bed”.
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Hello Tom, thanks for your comment and I’m sorry that I haven’t seen it until now, this blog is sadly neglected by me for long spells. It’s good to have a reference to The Crystal Cave, you will see that this blog has not reached the Merlin books (yet!), this is a lovely foodie scene.
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The possible ‘poisoned’ food in Thornyhold! That’s the first food that comes to mind thinking of this topic!
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Ah yes, that is an interesting one!
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